Tuesday, August 03, 2010

I have settled into our life in france and enjoying the blend of working on the organic farm and climbing mountains, eating our own food in the campervan and sharing bread and cheese with the locals, feeding the pigs and working in the garden.. and working with three couples who have just booked my services for their weddings in 2011!

Life on the animal farm where we are wwoofing is coming to a close and I am ready to leave. It was great having three weeks to stay and witness not only the beauty and charm of farm life but also bear testimony to the challenges that are a part of animal husbandry for the animals and the farmer.

The weather has been upsetting the harvest of grain and hay for the winter season, creating stress and sleepless nights for the farmer as he wonders whether his crop will be destroyed. Machinery costs an arm and a leg to get repaired… and the breakdown occurred at a crucial moment of harvest. There are the animals to feed morning and night, and quite a few losses of lives. The animals behavior is eye opening.

The daily cock fights as the young males mature and decide who is boss… while pecking each other into submission is frightening. The deaths of turkeys everyday as a disease takes its toll. The ducks are attacking each other as new plumage is a treat offering a tasty, juicy feast with blood and fear aplenty.

A dead goose was in the pen this morning with no apparent cause of death.... and life goes on for the others in this mad chaos.

The dead fowl get taken to the pig pen where the hungry beasts rip apart the tasty morsel, a tit bit for their voracious appetites. The suffering that is present as they all fight for survival is challenging not only for them, but for me as a witness. 

However life on the farm has also had its many joys... the quiet still nights where not a sound can be heard. Deep silence in the country. Starry nights and a big full moon. we have taken boat rides up canals past quaint french villages. I have learnt to say a few more things in french but I won't be holding my breath for it to flow eloquently from my mouth... my brain is just not up to it yet!!!

We helped bring in the harvest of corn spending hours helping in a work intensive labour ... Rog sitting by the back of the trailer ensuring the flow of grain didn't over fill the bucket where it was being funneled up to the top of the barn, and i was upstairs in the barn ensuring it spread out as it poured in. Both requiring constant attention. A great meditation... and all done before it rained!

We have also had some amazing walks up beautiful flower filled alpine meadows, climbing tall mountains before sunrise to soak up that divine energy up in the skies... we have swam in warm lakes and watched families play boules for hours on end. We have dined with my mum's french friend that she has known for over 60 years, and become friends with our lovely family that we are staying with. I have danced rock n roll at a local fete on July 14th - a public holiday in france, and drank water (clear wine!) in a chateau.

So next on our agenda, after this stint of farmwork is time out for quiet reflection and rest!  We have a week at our last woofers holiday home near Grenoble... up in the mountains again, miles from anywhere... no telephone or internet... I will get my paints out again.

I had a lovely chat with my three kids this morning and how wonderful they are! I am so enjoying the different relationship I share with them from afar, and do miss them. It will making our meeting in a few months time all the sweeter.

The beautiful village of Chanaz, east France

Saturday, July 31, 2010

Sitting on the back of a horse gives me such a thrill I cannot help but have a huge smile on my face. I have only been riding four times in my life so I am not a ‘horsey’ person, yet when I have the opportunity to share time with a horse the feeling is unbelievable.

Our hosts daughter, Letitia loves horses, having been on horseback since she was a baby thanks to her mum! Pony club, competition, the Firelli method, weekends with friends riding… her affinity with her horse is beautiful. I asked if she would give me a lesson while we were staying and she immediately seized the moment and we were off. I wanted to learn to gallop!

First we started down in the bottom paddock just talking with the three horses, chatting about their characters and personalities; and the adventures and challenges she had had with them. It was fascinating listening to her stories and feel her passion.

After about 15 minutes we placed a rope halter on them and guided them back to the house to groom and saddle them. That moment when, with my foot in the stirrup, I lifted myself up and sat saddle high up above the ground gets my heart racing and my smile widens.

We walked slowly up the hill as Letitia gave me some finer points about staying in the saddle, where the brakes are and a few other essential tips for which I was grateful. What an amazing property to grow up on riding horses, the majestic mountains, that I have raved so much about in my other blogs, are the backdrop as we amble along the rolling countryside, through the little villages, past the fields of barley.

Then it is into the paddock for my very first gallop… as the horse beneath me lurches forward my fear rises, and then as the rhythm begins between myself and this beautiful horse beneath me, I relax and gives whoops of delight. Letitia is grinning as she watches me.

It was long after supper when we returned with a big bunch of wild flowers picked from the wayside for her mum. I was one happy rider, albeit a bit shaky on my legs, bubbling with tales of speed, vistas and joy.

It was the next day when I discovered the muscles I had used in my legs! I was grateful I didn’t have to walk elegantly into a wedding ceremony, just walking to feed the animals was challenging enough! Yet, it was worth every ache!

Wednesday, July 28, 2010 How lovely it is to have someone stand by us: Yesterday as we were walking up the hill I felt really tired ... like I could not take one more step... or did not want to... Roger reached out and took my hand and I felt touched by his support; given without a word spoken.

Then our dear friend, Lisa; emailed this song through to us today...

Says it all really

Stand By Me

Monday, July 26, 2010 I received an email from my mum in Australia, about a dear friend of hers who lives near Lyon in France. We visited Rejane and Paul, and their sons Pierre (his wife Annie) and Jean last year when I came with my parents to France. Rejane and mum have been pen pals for over sixty years connecting when they were in school. During that time they have met half a dozen times or so, yet are like sisters to one another.

Mum had news that Rejane's cancer had returned and asked if I would visit her. Rog and I organised a day off from our farm duties and drove to the little town of Miribel picking up a large bunch of flowers on the way. What a joy it was to see her and share lunch with the family.

Rejane talked to me privately about her fears of undergoing chemo again, her fear and the trauma of not knowing if she will survive this difficult time. I felt deeply touched by her fragility and vulnerability at this difficult time. The precious time we shared was important for me, and also for my mum who was thinking of us across the ocean. They both love and respect each other dearly, and how glad I was to hold her for a brief moment and give her the message from my mum, 'Je t'embrace'... I embrace you...

Saturday, July 24, 2010 We had a day off from our 'animal farm' adventures and headed for the mountains behind Annecy. Tall peaks rising majestically from the valley floor lined with alpine flowers and dotted with meadows and scarred rock faces.

On our way up we stopped to dip in the aquamarine water of the lake and then slowly wound our way up the mountain road. We arrived at sunset as the streaks of pink against the black outlines revealed a majestic panoramic view.

We slept the night in our little campervan tucked in the fir forest with the sounds of cow bells all around... I was hoping they would stop chewing the cud at some point... which they did!

Awake at 5.30am we climbed the mountain in the cool of the dawn heading up.. and up ... and up. At the top we walked along a ridge that dropped away steeply down one side and was carpeted on the other with millions of wildflowers... and cows. We did our yoga surrounded by the peaks and the early morning sun...and then we sat for our meditation uninterupted although I am sure the cows thought us a bit strange.



We had carried our breakfast up and then relaxed on the mountain for two hours... I painted a few postcards and soaked up the awesome stillness and beauty around us. How blessed I feel to access the stillness within and around me. This time in the mountains has been such a gift in my life. As much as I love the ocean, I love the mountains!

On our way down we stopped at the Reblochon cheese farm to buy some for our hosts back at the 'animal farm'. Rog chatted with the two local farmers who have been dairy farming in the area since they were little. The farm has been making Reblochon cheese for four generations... and now his children do not want to take it on when he retires next year. Like many cottage industries many traditional skills are fading away as the next generation move on to other areas of interest. The price of his cheese has not changed in 20 years and yet the costs have continued to escalate... it truly is a work of love... and a dying art.



We arrived home with a delicious slab of tasty, gooey Reblochon which was the best cheese I have ever tasted! All those high alpine meadow flowers and fresh air... remember the story of Heidi?

We both felt very happy to meet these two farmers before they retired and the farm closes.

Monday, July 19, 2010 Our adventures WWOOFing (working on Organic Farms) has been fabulous and this precious time has given us the opportunity to experience French country life to the max. We are now based in Menthonnex just west of Annecy in the south east of France. It is just like I remembered from my childhood visits here many, many, many years ago when my mum and dad would bring us over in the car from England for a camping holiday.

Rolling hills, sleepy hamlets, shimmering fields of grain, beautiful flower boxes and fairytale turrets reaching the skies. The chateux are perched at the top of the small towns and church bells ring on the hour and half hour echoing around the countryside.

The biodynamic farm where we are staying is based on animal husbandry which, especially for a vegetarian, is an interesting experience, and I am loving it.

They have pigs, sheep, goats, cows, rabbits, chickens, ducks, geese and turkeys, horses plus four scraggy looking cats and a dog called Mosquito (Swiss Bernard dog ... so not at all small)

So it truly is from the chic and elegant streets of Paris to the pooey pig pens. I hope my wedding clients can glean from this blog that I am truly versatile... although they will never see me in the gear that I wear out here on the farm... even though the French all love my hat! (I am surprised at how few Europeans wear a hat in the sun)

Back to the farm...I am deeply grateful that it is not 'harvest' time here for the animals. If I was a meat eater I would want to eat organic food as i can attest to the quality of care and food given to the animals.

Our tasks are fun and Rog and I now feed all the animals twice a day and the pigs are hilarious. No friendships are accounted for at feed time. And motherly love... ha, not when you see mama pig toss her piglet five or six feet, with her snout, out of the pen against the wall when it gets in the way of her feeding... the phrase 'eating like a pig' makes real sense now.

On our second day it was into the pig muck to clean it out. It was surprising how much fun it was... mind you, we will only have to do it twice while we are here.



Today I was in the garden in the morning, weeding and watering and this afternoon it was helping to make the hay bales and stacking the barn with the ones that are ready. The tractor broke down so now we are praying the rain holds off til monday... even though they really need it, it would be disastrous and ruin the cut hay if it gets wet sitting out in the fields.

The family's two older children have come home to help out and we had a lot of fun. With all of the family speaking french my language skills are improving daily. It is a great way to learn the language.

Farm life is pretty tough... the turkeys have a disease which is killing one or two birds a day. The ducks are pecking at the young feathers of each other  for the moisture they contain, drawing blood and even killing one of them. I found the bloodied dead duck and then Daniel, the farmer, came along inspected the carcas for the cause of death and, knowing it was from 'duck slaughter' and not disease, threw the dead duck into the pig pen which drove the pigs wild... the sounds of breaking bones was not pleasant to my ears... and yet this is life on a farm.



Death is not hidden away. It is a part of everyday life. I witness the changes, the whims of nature, the workings of life and the acceptance of the good, the bad and the hard work.. The work that goes into producing meat and vegetables for the table is astonishing and gives me a real appreciation for the cost of food, and i know the farmers get a small amount of the shop price!

It is not all hard work ... I get to do my yoga in the early morning as the sun comes over the hill and the quietness of the country side is enriching. And, for some evening entertainment we headed into town the other night for the 14th July celebrations and I witnessed the best fireworks i had ever seen complete with an amazing sound show... music with crescendoes and harmonies that were breathtaking all in time to the dazzling light show. We danced in the village square until 1am and then headed home ready for an early start cutting the hay... and feeding the pigs ...

yep, i am having fun on the farm!

Thursday, July 15, 2010 I have left Paris after a wonderful week with family... and now we are on our next WWOOFing farmstay with a family just west of Annecy, south east France.

It is hot, hot, hot... and the harvest is beginning. Yesterday Roger and I picked buckets of blackcurrants, next come the framboise... the raspberries. This farm is in rolling countryside and the outlook is more what I imagined of the French countryside. Fields of shimmering wheat, farmlets scattered around small towns with turreted chateaux adorning the hills.

Last night was the celebration of the 14th July.. a big day in France. The father, Daniel and I  into the local village for the celebrations.. a big feast. A huge marquee set up in the town square with long trestle tables and lots of family's enjoying their evening meal. (Daniel's wife, Evelyn and Roger didn't want a late night so they retired for the evening). We arrived at 10pm for the firework display which had been delayed a while so we walked up to the local chateau and enjoyed the busy scene from up above.

As the night sky darkened even more we made our way down to a meadow to find a spot right under the display. What a display! The best light and sound show I have ever seen. With the community counting down the start, the music began and it was an emotionally evocative piece. I would love to tell you what it was ... but I don't know! It was full of powerful crescendoes and dynamism... quiet running melodies and uplifting trumpet fanfares... with the lights and sparkles of the fireworks dancing and flying through the air. It was breathtaking. The finale was unbelievable.. even now I shake my head thinking of the extraordinary shower of colour and shapes... a great night.

This festival once again emphasised to me the emotional power of music and how the choice of it at ceremonies, festivals, even at home has such an impact upon our senses...

This was also highlighted by the fun music the DJ played for the dancing. Everyone, from the young ones to the oldies had their feet tapping for the dance music.

Daniel and I did a little rock n roll on the dance floor with hundreds of young people before retiring at 1am. Daniel and Evelyn's son, Timothy was there and he and his girlfriend didn't get home til after 4am. We needed our beauty sleep... that, and the fact, that we were getting up at 6 to mow the meadow!

Wednesday, July 14, 2010 Paris is a beautiful city and I have had a great week with my sister in law, Viv and her husband, Jonathan, who have both lived here for over 20 years, and my other sister in law, Tess, and her husband John who are visiting from Melbourne.

it has been hot and humid which makes evening strolls around the streets and parks a treat. Cool breezes and lots of people enjoying the night air. Paris does have a very romantic air to it... music wafting through the night air, accordian music playing the french classics...lovers in the park, sitting on walls, cuddled next to the tree, on the benches... 


During the day I climbed the Eiffel Tower, visited the Louvre, sat in beautiful gardens, shopped at the local markets and practiced my new found French skills, and during the afternoon snoozed in the balmy wraparound heat. I love Paris however I am looking forward to returning to the mountains... fresh air, quiet and open spaces... and my beloved Roger who has just finished the impressive week long Tour du Mont Blanc -  a week long walk in high alpine mountain country. I can't wait to see him!

Monday, July 12, 2010 My sister in law, Viv and her husband Jonathan, went to a wedding just north east of Paris the day I arrived. It was the son and his fiance of one of their friends from the theatre. The young couple had opted for a civil ceremony in the Mairie's (Mayor's) office only and then a fabulous reception at one of the wedding venues nearby. Viv said it was great fun with the couple arriving to the reception on the groom's motorbike... there was lots of entertainment and partying late into the night. The French are notorious for their late dinners... the first course didn't arrive until 10pm! Everyone had a great night... check out their fun invite!

Sunday, July 11, 2010 In France PACS is a civil pact of solidarity and since its inception just over ten years ago over 300,000 couples have signed up. The civil solidarity pact is a contract between two adults of the same sex or different sex, to organize their life together legally. It is a legal agreement that gives them the same legal rights as a married couple.

Yesterday I met a lovely young English woman living in Paris who is forming a PACS with her French boyfriend. They plan to live together with this agreement.

For many couples marriage is not an option and having this alternative offers them another pathway. Sophie was very happy she has this choice as neither of them want to get married yet want the legal protections and the societal recognition. They will have a simple ceremony to mark the occasion.

Happy PACS day!