My partner and I had ten days in Fiji this month. The Fijians friendliness, care and kindness were an elixir of connection, nourishment and joy. Our niece, Mireille, also lives in Suva and she joined us for a short time for wonderful late into the night conversations and hugs.
Aside from the wonderful Fijians, 28 degree air temperature, warm ocean, divine coral and marine life, gorgeous food… the welcoming, kava and farewell ceremonies touched me deeply.
As we stepped off the boat onto Waya Island in the Yasawas, we were greeted with the traditional song of welcome… and a heartfelt, ‘Bula’.
Kava Ceremony
We attended three kaya ceremonies. Kava is a traditional Fijian drink made from the ground root of the piper mythisticum – a type of black pepper plant grown in the wetter areas of the Pacific. The tradition was explained to us and then we were invited to produce a loud hollow clap, take the kava cup, say ‘Bula’ and then skull the kava drink! Finishing the rite with three more loud hollow claps with everyone else joining in. And then, lots of laughter! Here National Geographic captures the ceremony.
Farewell—Isa Lei
I have conducted a few funerals in the Coffs Harbour area where the traditional farewell song, Isa Lei has been sung. Without fail, I felt a sense of mourning and poignancy. When guests left Waya Island, I would hear the strains of this tender song on the wind and waves and find myself feeling very tender. When it was our turn to leave the island, I cried. We had come to connect deeply with the Fijians we had made friends with.
What song of farewell makes you cry? I’d love to hear from you in the comments. (Please note your contact details are not publicly shown when you leave a message)
Isa lei, the purple shadow falling,
My father’s mother came from Rotuma, a small island north of Fiji. He died when I was a child, but I can remember him singing this song to me at bedtime. I have later come to wonder on what sorrow it carried for both him and his mother. When my granddaughter was born a couple of years ago, I searched up the words so I could sing her to sleep with it, bringing a resonance from her ancestors into her dreams.
Kathrine, that is a very heartwarming story. What a beautiful gift to give your granddaughter Songs and dreams from her ancestors and you.